All Day I Think About Archie
Words by Olivia Finlayson
Pictures by Alysha Holder and Andrew Coles
Something about this little plot of land on Gertrude Street, sandwiched between stalwart café De Clieu and an old-as-time barbershop, never quite worked. Businesses seemed to come and go with few noticing their arrival let alone departure. That was until Archie’s moved in.
Turns out a fresh lick of alabaster paint can resuscitate handsome yet gloomy bluestone, particularly when part of a simple renovation that opens the space to welcome abundant, mood-lifting natural light.
In line with its physical transformation, Archie’s opened with a menu refreshingly uncomplicated. Before long, hordes and their pugs huddled at the door vying for a table, booth, bench seat or a spot in the sunny courtyard.
While other Melbourne eateries battle out an arms race of fancy takes on traditional breakfast (60-something degree eggs, air-dried wallaby and breakfast ramen etc.), Archie’s deals less in trends and more in ‘exactly what you want’ food: Mexican fried eggs served with chipotle mayo-smothered tater tots; best-in-town smashed avocado with creamy hunks of Meredith goat’s feta; abundant tangles of bacon, classic hash browns, and juicy, oozing burgers. No room for edible flowers or activated charcoal on this hangover’s-best-friend menu.
Espresso by Proud Mary and filter by Market Lane flies from the machine ‘til late evening, along with turmeric lattes, Mörk hot chocolates, smoothies, pour over brews and cold-pressed juices. And for when coffee won’t cut it, opt for a Bloody Mary, Mandarin Mimosa or on-tap Negroni.
From 4pm ‘til 6pm daily, the siren song of happy hour draws Fitzroy’s work-weary in to sink refreshing drink specials. House wine and ale go for a pleasant $6 but the savvy will opt for a $7 bargain from the list of tall drinks (usually $10). Our tip? The Paloma, which tastes unmistakably like two weeks in Tulum: Tromba tequila and fizzy pink grapefruit, served with fresh lime in a salt-rimmed glass.
And so, this little plot of land on Gertrude Street became a solid city favourite, already part of Fitzroy’s furniture and unlikely to leave us anytime soon.
